Attachment for forming a french edge on velvet hats.



F. L. SCRYMGEOUR.

ATTACHMENT FOR FORMING A FRENCH EDGE 0N VELVET HATS. APPLICATION FILEDJULY 28. I915.

1,16%,126, Patented Dec. 14, 1915.

FEEL

FRANK L. SCRYMGEOUR, OF MANSFIELD, MASSACHUSETTS.

ATTACHMENT FOR FORMING A FRENCH EDGE ON VELVET HATS.

Application filed July 28, 1915.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, FRANK L. SCRYM- GEOUR, a citizen of the UnitedStates, residing at Mansfield, county of Bristol, State ofMassachusetts, have invented a certain new and useful Improvement inAttachments for Forming a French Edge on Velvet Hats, of which thefollowing is a specification, reference being had therein to theaccompanying drawings.

The invention relates to a device for forming a so-called French edge orcigarette edge on velvet hats.

In the manufacture of velvet hats the rim is usually composed of threelayers of fabric,-namely, a top and bottom layer of velvet and anintermediate layer of buckram or similar stiffening material, andfrequently also the edge is wired. In the manufacture of the so-calledFrench edge the upper layer of velvet and the in termediate layer ofbuckram are cut back for a short distance from the edge of the lowerlayer of velvet all the way around so that the lower layer of velvetprojects out beyond the upper layer of velvet and the buckram for asufficient distance. say perhaps about five-siXteenths of an inch, sothat when the wire is laid upon the upper surface of the velvet near theedge, the said projecting portion or flange of the lower layer of velvetmay be rolled over around the wire to form a head. It is usual to applyan adhesive to the wire and to the upper face of said projecting rim ofvelvet before the velvet is rolled around the wire so that when thevelvet is rolled about the wire the two adhesive surfaces will cometogether and firmly cement the wire and the velvet together. In order tomake a more nicely finished edge it is important that when the saidflange of velvet is rolled over around the wire the edge shall be turnedin under the wire so that the edge will be out of sight and make a morefinished appearance to the roll. It is diflicult and expensive to dothis by hand and it is also expensive to make a complete machineespecially for that purpose.

The object of the present invention is to provide a device by which thefolded flange of velvet will be properly rolled around the wire andtucked in and it is also the object of the invention to provide a deviceof such a character that it can be readily attached Specification ofLetters Patent.

Patented Dec. 1%, 1915.

Serial No. 42,405.

to an ordinary hat sewing machine, such for instance as a \Vilcox andGibbs, or any one of a number of other makes of sewing machines on themarket, and thereby to utilize a machine already on hand which whendesired can be used as a sewing machine and which is readily adapted foruse to form the French edge and, in which also the sewing machine feedwill be utilized to feed the hat while forming the French edge.

The invention will be fully understood from the following descriptionwhen taken in connection with the accompanying drawings and the novelfeatures thereof will be pointed out and clearly defined in the claimsat the close of this specification.

In the drawings,Figure 1 is a side elevation of a device embodying theinvention attached to the foot bar of a sewing machine of the Wilcox andGibbs type, the needle bar being removed and portions of the machinebeing broken away which are not necessary to illustrate the invention.Fig. 2 is a side elevation ofthe device embodying the invention detachedfrom the machine. Fig. 3 is a plan view of a portion of a hat brimshowing the wire in place and a portion of the flange of the lower layerof velvet turned over as it should be before application to the machine,a portion of the velvet flange being shown as it is before it is doubledover in order to show the location of the wire. Fig. 4 is a sectionenlarged on line ftl: of Fig. 3. Fig. 5 is a plan view of a portion of ahat brim and of the device embodying the invention applied thereto as inoperation, the machine being omitted. Fig. 6 is a section on line 66 ofFig. 5 showing the position of the parts in the operation of forming theFrench edge. Fig. 7 is a plan view on an enlarged scale of the toothedgrooved wheel which engages and tucks in the velvet around the wire.

Referring now to the drawings, the body of the device, which may be of asingle block of metal, has a head portion 1, and a foot portion 2 whichis curled up at the end forming an overhanging arm 3 which has a slot 4whereby it may be connected with the foot bar 5 of a sewing machine. Thefoot bar 5 passes through the slot 4: and the device is secured to thefoot bar by a nut 6 and washer 7 in the same way that the foot of asewing machine is connected with the foot bar. In side elevation viewthe part thus far described closely resembles the foot of a sewingmachine. The head 1 is under cut so that the foot portion 2 projectsdown lower than the under side of the head 1.

A grooved roll 10 is mounted on a pin 8 which extends up through thehead 1 of the device. Said pin is secured and clamped therein by a setscrew 9, said roll 10 having a. groove 11 which is somewhat like thegroove of a pulley wheel, and which is of suflicient diameter to receivethe wire with its velvet covering. The thin flange 12 which forms thelower end of the roll is preferably toothed on its periphery as clearlyshown in Fig. 7, and the lower face of this flange should preferably beat substantially the same level as the lower face of the foot 2. Securedto the upper side of the head 1 is a spring presser member 13 whoseunder face is also on about the same level as the lower face of theflange 12 of the grooved roll. The under face of the foot 2 is formedwith a longitudinal groove 19 to afford clearance for the covered wire.

When the device is attached to a sewing machine as in Fig. 1, the needlebar should be removed as it is not used in the wiring operation and itwould extend down into the way of the tucking device during theoperation of the machine. The feed 14: is the "toothed feed of thesewing machine of ordinary form and is actuated in well known mannerwhich does not require description.

The brim of the hat to be wired has three layers of fabric, as alreadymentioned, and as shown in Figs. 3, 4c and 6, namely, a bot tom layer 15of velvet, a top layer 16 of velvet and an intermediate layer 17 ofbuckram. The top. layer of velvet 16 and the layer of buckram 17 areboth cut back for a short distance as clearlv shown in Fig. 3 exposing aflange portion of the lower layer of velvet 15 which extends all aroundthe rim. Cement is applied to the upper face of this exposed portion,then the wire 18 is put in position on top of the upper layer of velvet,near the edge, and extending entirely around the rim and is also treatedwith cement. Then the flange of the lower layer of velvet 15 is by handor by other suitable means turned over the wire as shown in Fig. 4. InFig. 3 it is shown turned over part way of its length but it should beturned over all the way around before starting it in the machine. Thecement will temporarily hold it in thisposition until the grooved tuckeracts upon it. The meeting ends of the wire are clasped together as shownin Fig. 5 at 20, to more surely hold the ends from spreading apart. Thehat is then ready to be introduced into the machine as shown in Fig. 6,

positioning it in such manner that the flange 12 of the roller 10 willengage the turned over portion of the flange of the lower layer layer ofvelvet 15 all the way around the hat. The roll 10 is revoluble on thepin 8. A grooved stationary guide might be employed, but it is better tohave the guide in form of a roll or wheel and revoluble.

llhat I claim is:

1. An attachment for a machine for tucking in the covering of the edgewire ofa hat brim comprising a body portion, and a peripherally groovedroller mounted thereon,

the axis of the roller being perpendicular to g the plane of the feed,the groove of-said roller being adapted to receive the covered wire,said roller having a flange'which is adapted to engage the turned overportion of the covering for the wire and tuck it in under the wire.

2. An attachment for a machine for tucking in the covering of the edgewire of a hat brim, said attachment comprising a body portion, and agrooved roller mounted thereon, the axis of rotation of the roller beingperpendicular to the plane of the feed of the hat brim, the roller beingformed with a circumferential groove which is adapted to receive thecovered wire, said roller ha"- ing a flange which forms the lower edgeof the groove and is adapted to engage the turned over portion of thecovering for the wire and tuck it in under the wire, said device beingformed with a foot whereby it may be attached to a machine. 7

3. An attachment for a machine for tucking in the covering of the edgewire of a hat brim comprising a body portion, a grooved roller mountedthereon, the groove of said roller being adapted to receive the coveredwire, said roller having a flange which is adapted to engage the turnedover portion of the covering and tuck it under the wire, said devicebeing formed with a foot portion whereby it may be attached to amachine, and a spring presser member secured to the body of said devicein a position to engage the turned over portion of the covering inadvance of the engagement of the said roll with the said wire and itscovering.

4:. An attachment for a machine for tucking in the covering of the edgewire of a hat brim, said attachment comprising a body portion, and agrooved roller mounted thereon, the groove of said roller being adaptedto receive the covered wire, said roller having a flange which isadapted to engage the turned over portion of the covering for the Wireand tuck it in under the brim, said attachment comprising a bodyportion, and a peripherally grooved roller mounted thereon, the axis ofthe roller being perpendicular tothe plane oftravel of the hat brim, thegroove'of saidv roller being adapted to receive the covered wire, said'roller having aflange parallel with the plane of travel of the hat brimwhich is adapted to engage the turned over portion of the'covering forthe wire and tuck it in under the W128.

6. In combination with a machine having a foot bar and a rteed, anattachmentioi" tucking 1n the covering oi the edgewire of a hat brim,said attachment comprising a body portion, and peripherally groovedroller mounted thereon, the axis of the roller being vertical and thegroove of said roller being adapted toreceive the covered wire, saidroller having a peripheral flange borderingthelower side of the groovewhich is adapted to engage the turned over portion of the covering forthe wire and tuck it'in under the wire.

7. In combination with a foot bar and feed of a sewing machine, anattachment for forming a French edge on a velvet hat, said attachmentcomprising a body portion having a foot constructed and arranged forattachment to said foot bar, and a peripherally grooved roller mountedon said body portion the axis of the roller'being perpendicular to theplane of travel of the hat brim, said roller having a horizontal flangeat the lower end and being sopo sitioned that the groove of said rolleris adapted'to receive the wire and its covering of velvet,

and said flange being adapted to engage and tuck the edge of the velvetbeneath the wire while the hat is being moved by the feed.

8. In combination with a foot bar and feed of a sewing machine, anattachment for forming a French edge on a velvet hat, said attachmentcomprising a body portion havinga foot constructed and arranged forattachment to said foot bar, a grooved roller mounted on said bodyportion, said roller having a flange at one end and being so positionedthat the groove of said roller is adapted to receive the wire and itscovering of velvet, and said flange being adapted to engage and tuck the.edge of the velvet beneath the wire while the hat is being moved by thefeed, and a spring presser member mounted on said body which engages theturned over portion of the hat brim in ad Vance of the engagement of thegrooved roll with the wire.

9. In combination with a machine having a cloth feed, and a foot bar, anattachment for tucking in under the wire of a hat brim the turned overedge of the brim, said attachment comprising a body portion, a footportion having a toe turned up and then backward and slotted forattachment to the foot bar, and a grooved roll revolubly mounted on avertical axis on the under side of said body,'said roll having acircumferential groove and a thin horizontal flange on the under sidewhich engages with a turned over edge of the hat brim and tucks it inunder the wire while the hat is being moved by the said feed.

10. In combination with a machine having a cloth feed, and a foot bar,an attachment for tucking in under the wire oi a hat brim the turnedover edge of the brim, said attachment comprising a body portion, a

footportion constructed for attachment to the foot bar, and a groovedroll revolubly mounted on a vertical axis on the under side of saidbody, said roll having a circumferential groove and a thin horizontalflange on the under side which engages with a turned over edge of thehat brim and tucks it in under the wire while the hat is being moved bythe said feed, said flange for the roller being formed with teeth in itsperiphery.

11. In combination with a machine having a cloth feed, and a foot bar,an attachment for tucking in under the wire of a hat brim the turnedover edge oi the brim, said attachment comprising a body portion, a footportion constructed for attachment to the foot bar, a grooved rollrevolubly mounted on the under side of said body, said roll having acircumferential groove and a thin flange on the under side which engageswith a turned over edge of the hat brim and tucks it in under the wirewhile the hat is being moved by the said feed, said flange for theroller being formed with teeth in its periphery, and a spring pressersecured to said body in a position to engage the hat brim in advance ofits engagement by the said grooved roll.

12. A device to be attached to a machine for covering the edge wire of ahat brim, said device comprising a body portion, a roller rotativelymounted on the under side of said body on a vertical stud, said rollerbeing formed with a. circumferential groove adapted to receive thecovered wire, a horizontal flange on the lower end of said roll r, apresser member secured to said body and extending rearwardly tiereof andhaving a horizontal base portion which is in the same plane as theflangeof said roller, and a forwardly extending foot portion attached tosaid body, the bottom of said foot being in the same horizontal plane assaid flange.

Incombination with a 'machine having afoot bar, and a feed5'anattachment for tucking -1n .the covering of the edge wire of a hatgbrim,said attachment comprlsing a body portion, a roller rotatablymounted onthe under side of said body on a vertical stud, said roller being formedwith a circumferential groove adapted to receivethe covered wire, ahorizontal flange on the lowerend of said roller, a presser membersecured to said body and extendlng rearwardly thereof and having ahorizontal base portion which isin the same plane as the flange of saidroller, and a forwardly extending foot portion attached to said body,the bottom of said, foot being in the same horizontal plane as saidflange.

ll. In combination with a machine having afoot bar, an attachment to thefoot bar for tucking 1n the covering of the edge wire of a hat brim,sald attachment com- 7 prising a body portion, a roller rotatablymounted on the under sideof said body and rotatable on a vertical axis,said roller beinguiormed with a circumferential groove, a horizontalcircular flange on the lower end of said roller, and a feed located andmovable in a plane parallel with and below the said flange on theroller.

15. In combination with a machine having a foot bar, an attachment forsaid foot bar, said attachment comprising a body portion, a rollerrotatably mounted on the underside of said body and rotatable on avertical axis, said roller being formed with a circumferential groove, ahorizontal circular flange onjthe lower end of said roller, said flangebeing formed with teeth in its Copies of this patent may be obtained for-periphery and means fforattaching said deviceto said footbar 16. Incombination with a; machine hav ing foot bar, an attachment for; saidfoot bar, said attachment comprising a body portion, a roller rotatablymounted on the under side of :said body'and rotatableon a ver-' tical.axls, said" roller be ng formed vnth a said ed roll. a

17. In combination with av maehine havmg a foot bar, an attachment forsaid foot bar for tucking in the covering "of the edge wire of a hatbrim, said attachment compris 1" ing a body portion having a horizontal;

groove in one side thereof to receive and.

guide the covered wire, a' horizontal flange 'below said groove. adaptedto -engage and tuck in the coveringof the-wire, a presser member in therear of said fljange, a foot front of said flange, the bottom of sa dpresser member, saidilange and said foot all being in substantially thesame horizontal plane and a feed movable in a plane below and parallelwith the plane of the bot tom of said flange.

In testimony whereof in presence of two w1tnesses V Witnesses 7 lVILLIAMA. COPELAND, LUCY F. COPELAND.

I aflilx mysignature,

FRANK L. sGR MGEOURY five cents each, by addressing the flo'lnmission erof Patents, Washington, I). G.

